When I wandered into the town, it was not yet a hidden gem, or a place on the rise, or even a work in progress. I walked the town day and night and gathered its secrets. It was a study of things left behind, things forgotten. Every hollow house and pile of bricks was a monument to a past no one bothered to remember.

But there is activity afoot. A brightly lit brewpub has sprung to life next to a lonely old house I've passed countless times over the years. The still of midnight has been replaced by the buzz of folks sipping the latest Fig Saison. I can scarcely believe it. The unlikeliest places reinvent themselves just when you think it's not possible.

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